A Princess’s Salmon


Salmon Tatanoff, a specialty of Princess Andrew of Russia.

Princess Andrew of Russia sounds like quite a gal, at least as far as the thumbnail portrait of her goes in Marjorie Salter and Adrianne Allen Whitney’s Delightful Food (Sidgwick, 1957). Married to a nephew of Nicholas II and daughter of an Italian duke and his Russian wife, the former Elisabetta “Elsa” Ruffo (1887-1940) reportedly was a mystic, which certainly raises my eyebrows. What kind of mystic? Did she do card readings? Was she a nun in a secret sect? Did she walk amid clouds of incense? Whatever “mystic” means precisely, Princess Andrew was a fine hostess known for her good food, and included in Salter and Allen’s cookery book were two of her household specialties, Salmon Tatanoff and Caviare Sauce. (The princess herself had died 17 years earlier, in a Luftwaffe attack in England during World War II.)

The salmon is absolutely simple to prepare, it being wrapped in well-buttered parchment paper—en papillote, for the technically minded among you—and baked for about an hour. The sauce was easy too but a bit alarming when completed. Caviar of an unspecified hue was called for, so I cheaply opted for red lumpfish, thinking it sounded suitably Russian in color. Alas, the sauce it made was a brilliant shade of coral, though the gray alternative that would result from non-red fish eggs seemed about as appetizing. That being said, I would serve Salmon Tatanoff again—though I’ll give the darker sauce a try. Perhaps it looks very chic. Frankly the red one looked a bit aprés homicide. Our daughter, however, adored it, saying upon its presentation, “It’s pink, so you know I’ll love it.” And so she did.

SALMON TATANOFF

SOURCE: Marjorie Salter and Adrianne Allen Whitney’s Delightful Food (Sidgwick, 1957)

SERVES 4 TO 5

INGREDIENTS

2-pound piece of salmon, preferably middle cut

Salt

Pepper

Parchment paper

Butter, at room temperature, or olive oil

Remove the fish’s skin, salt and pepper the salmon all over, and wrap in parchment paper, well oiled or buttered. [NOTE: I didn’t remove the salmon skin; it was just too difficult, and I am far too impatient.] Put this carefully folded like a neat parcel in a buttered fireproof dish, and bake in a very moderate oven [about 320 degrees Fahrenheit] for about an hour to 1-1/2 hours. Serve with caviar sauce (recipe below).

CAVIAR SAUCE

INGREDIENTS

1 egg yolk

Cold water

Juice of 1/2 small lemon

1 ounce butter, cut into small pieces

Butter, at room temperature, to add as needed

1/3 cup whipping cream, whipped until relatively stiff

2 tablespoons of caviar or lumpfish roe

In the top of a double boiler put the egg yolk, a few drops of cold water, lemon juice, 1 ounce of butter, salt, and pepper. Cook over boiling water, stirring continuously. First the butter melts, then the yolk thickens, and you add more and more butter until you have the sauce the right consistency which should be rather stiff. If it curdles due to too much heat, add a few more drops of cold water and whip vigorously. Then add a small quantity of whipped cream and caviar. Stir well and serve.

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6 comments on “A Princess’s Salmon

  1. I was going to comment on the rather lurid colour of the sauce, but since you beat me to it…

  2. Charlotte says:

    It might be the right color? Afterall, it’s the same generation that was all over tomato aspic.

  3. Sally Chamberlain says:

    Don’t know if Princess Andrew of Greece was a good cook but she was another self-styled mystic, had visions and communicated with other worlds. Perhaps that is why her son, Prince Philip, communicates in such a strange way??

  4. Penelope Bianchi says:

    Oh! SOMEONE COULD HAVE TOLD ME!!!!

    DRAT ALL OF YOU WHO KNEW!!!!

    The “Aesthete Cooks” is simply the “Aesthete’s Lament” with recipes!!!!!

    Lordy!
    Now I have saved every single one (not to copy) but to build my library of brilliant posts!

    Of all things! my fave room on earth at Beauport…..was the subject. And Elsie de wolfe’s recipe!!!!!!!!

    Can you show us the shot of that room looking out on the river with the windows that go down into the wall???? With the other long skinny table with only one row of chairs that face out to the water?

    PLEASE????!!!! ( Sorry if that is too demanding…..I take it back! So glad to find you!!!!!!)

    BEST ROOM EVER!!

    Penelope

    Thanks!

    Penelope

    ps good comments……good followers. good grief!

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