Royal Gingerbread (pre 1920)


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The Duke of Windsor, at his country house in France's Loire Valley, in the 1960s. Image by Horst for American Vogue.

The Duke of Windsor isn’t known much for food, though he certainly made an impact on fashion with his idiosyncratic mixing of plaids and stripes. As a child, however, the future king of the United Kingdom and emperor of India had a passion for gingerbread — the stickier, the better, according to one of his doting aunts. The thin, crisp gingerbread we know today, primarily through gingersnaps and gingerbread houses, bears no resemblance to the royal child’s favorite confection. His was more like a cake or a brownie: dense, sweet, and, yes, sticky, thanks to a serious amount of treacle. Think of a sticky toffee pudding, without the sauce, and you’ll get the general idea.

Recently I was alerted to the duke’s preferred gingerbread recipe by a Facebook friend. It was published in Court Favourites: Recipes from Royal Kitchens (André Deutsch Limited, 1953) by Elizabeth Craig, a leading British cookery expert and author of masses of food- and housekeeping-related books. In recent years an adaptation of the recipe has shown up on various cookery related blogs. Do not, however, trust anything but the original, because the adaptations reduce the spices to an alarmingly degree and deliver instead a pleasing, middlebrow gingerbread without any real bite. The gingerbread preferred by the Duke of Windsor is apparently as bold as his suits—rich, moist, and intensely spiced, and the flecks of candied citrus peel give it an interesting, fruit-cake edge. As for the required stickiness, I didn’t have ready access to black treacle, so I was forced to substitute a blend of dark and light Karo syrups. I baked two gingerbreads and took one to work the following day. My co-workers quickly wiped it out, one pronouncing it the best traditional gingerbread she had ever tasted. As for the one I left at home, my husband nibbled at it over the course of three days, saying, “It was a very spicy cake, very delicious, though I thought the store-bought lemon peel was a bit too hard on my teeth. Homemade is better.”

When preparing this gingerbread, a stand mixer with the flat-beater attachment is the best course of action. Just keep a close eye on it, because the batter gets very thick before the softening addition of the treacle or syrups. I nearly burnt out the engine of our KitchenAid when I got distracted by a Netflix episode of “Green Acres.” How very Lisa Douglas of me.

NOTE: A reader of this blog has pointed out that the recipe will be significantly different if actual black treacle can be found. Therefore I have ordered Lyle’s Black Treacle via Amazon.com and will post again about this recipe once it arrives, perhaps as early as next week-end.

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THE DUKE OF WINDSOR’S GINGERBREAD

SOURCE: Court Favorites: Recipes from Royal Kitchens (André Deutsch Limited, 1953)

SERVES: Makes two (2) cakes

EQUIPMENT: Two (2) 9 x 13 cake pans, either metal or glass

INGREDIENTS

1 pound (4 sticks) unsalted butter, softened

2 pounds (4 cups) plain white flour

1 pound (2 cups) dark brown sugar

2 ounces ground ginger

1 pound (2 cups) slivered almonds

3 ounces ground caraway seeds (NOTE: I couldn’t find ground caraway at the market so bought whole seeds and pulverized them in a coffee grinder.)

4 ounces chopped mixed candied peel (NOTE: I used Paradise brand store-bought lemon peel.)

2 ounces ground allspice

1/2 teaspoon bicarbonate of soda

2 pounds (4 cups) treacle (NOTE: I didn’t have any Lyle’s Black Treacle on hand so substituted one 16-ounce bottle of light Karo syrup and one 16-ounce bottle of dark Karo syrup. I have since been advised that one could use 2/3 molasses mixed with 1/3 Lyle’s Golden Syrup to achieve a gingerbread somewhat closer to what the Duke of Windsor ate as a child.)

6 eggs

DIRECTIONS

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit.

2. Rub the butter into the flour until it looks like coarse meal. (NOTE: I just dumped those two ingredients into the bowl of the stand mixer and turned the machine on low.)

3. Stir in the sugar, ginger, almonds, spices, candied peel, and the bicarbonate of soda until well combined.

4. Beat the eggs with the treacle and stir into the dry ingredients.

5. Pour the batter into two buttered and lightly floured 9 x 13 cake pans — fill them only half way — and bake in the oven until the cakes have risen and are “just” shrinking from the sides of the pan. (This will be about 35 minutes. Use a toothpick to test.)

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6. Turn out onto racks and allow to cool. Wrap in parchment paper and then wrap in foil.

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The finished gingerbread, slightly overcooked but it was delicious nonetheless.

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14 comments on “Royal Gingerbread (pre 1920)

  1. Anne .mason brown says:

    A wonderful recipe. Unfortunately in the UK treacle is black treacle not the golden syrup you have used. It is black and sticky, the same consistency as syrup. It is not molasses which is thicker and a less refined form of sugar. If you can get golden syrup hopefully you can get treacle and then you will taste real gingerbread. You could try two-thirds molasses one-third syrup.

  2. The Aesthete says:

    Dear Anne, Thanks very much for commenting. I, too, hope I can get hold of some treacle as well. I knew it wasn’t molasses so steered clear of that. I live in a rural area, alas, so must mail-order black treacle. So I’ll be redoing the recipe next week-end (some friends and their children are arriving) and will let you know how it turns out!

  3. Looks really delicious.

  4. Thomas says:

    I had an old recipe that also called for a bit of black pepper!- Haven’t seen it in 30 years and have no idea where it is- but an interesting addition

    • The Aesthete says:

      Black pepper would be a good addition, I think. If you find it, please send that recipe my way. I’d love to try it. Pepper can be quite invigorating in a dessert. I tried it once when making ice cream … it was splendid.

  5. Elizabeth Forshaw says:

    Mmmm. The lemon peel with the addition of caraway and the almonds make it sounds intriguingly delicious! I must try making it.

    A little treat for you this time, I came across this fantastic blog while looking for a recipe for game pie. It’s written by Ivan Day, an English Food historian of note. Be sure to check out all of his links too.
    http://www.historicfood.com/about%20us.htm

    Enjoy, and Happpy New Year!

  6. Lucindaville says:

    That is one of my favorite cookbooks. I am surprised it has not been reprinted. If you find any other Elizabeth Craig books, do pick them up.

  7. Washington Cube says:

    America’s Test Kitchen did a gingerbread recipe a few weeks ago that I saved to try. My mother made gingerbread during the winter months, and I have to admit I haven’t had it in ages. She often would make a lemon curd to go with it, as well.

  8. carolyn says:

    wonderful love all…. and will send to all my friends so we can store these up for a cold night in
    thank you

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